Відео

That question is far too open. You'll need to describe what you mean by 'poor', and in what type of situations it occurs.

do i need amplifier so i can get maximum volume?

Turntable plugged into amplifier which is in turn plugged into speakers. So yes.

I don't know the exact make and model of your ESC, but ESCs that can control two separate motors are not as common place as the usual single motor ESC. If this is the case with yours, installing two separate ESCs is the way to go. People have tried running two brushless motors from a single brushless motor ESC, but this is with lightweight radio control models, and even then the failure rate is high. With a board that is going to move a person around... I just wouldn't bother.

Yup, it's annoying that the battery doesn't have any specs. Having said that if it were me (I'm not saying you should do this!), I'd buy a generic six cell Li-Ion BMS, without an overly high charge rate. I'd rely on the VESC to implement a limit for the discharge rate (about 60 A). With that in mind the BMS' discharge rate should be at least this high or it will limit the current too early, before the BMS does. But this is what I would do. If you buy a BMS with a charge rate the battery cannot handle... not good.

I haven't measured it. To be clear, changing the ESC will not change the top speed of the board. The ESC does not add extra current to the motor, instead it controls the rate at which it is delivered.

Afraid not.

Thanks Andy. One of my next videos (when the weather changes and I have a free day) is to do a proper range test of the Chinese clone board. What I can tell you now is that it goes considerably further than the Boosted Board.

I was interested in the KooWheel but I need to hear more feedback before I decide. Night Flyer has had bad luck with his, this might be an isolated incident or not. If it is a common fault but I see a pattern in the cause and think I can remedy it, I might still get it.

i actually have a Koowheel now, and i absolutely love it

Real Range about 16km, but I'm also 105 KG heavy, i have only ridden for maybe 5-6 hours all in all

That's a huge shame. It looked like it had some interesting features. It should be noted Lee is obliged to honour any warranty...

lee is no longer the owner of magneto...

This happened to me as well I got in touch with the previous owner and they are sending out a new one.

i didnt bother with the new one, sticking with the old one.

Oh, great videos as well! Thanks for posting!

Can't remember off the top of my head, but they're in the video. And nope, never had the need to change them.

Thanks! :-)

No idea; I sold these ages ago. Having said that I typed "Pioneer HPM-110 circuit diagram" and the information you want is there...

Yup, you can use a terminal strip as I did in the video. I forget the current limit for terminal strips but it isn't as high as the current in this circuit so keep that in mind. Another disadvantage is strands of wire can cause a short circuit, which is dangerous in these boards, and lastly the screws can loosen, also dangerous. I get the impression electronics isn't your thing. If so I cannot recommend you attempt this. Just the opposite! The batteries in these boards can vent rapidly (explode!), so if you are indeed inexperienced, get someone else to to this.

Hi Gary. 'Fraid not. The stock ESCs are awful so I don't bother trying to fix them; I simply replace them with a better ESC.

Will an upgraded ESC allow for faster speed, or just a better part in general?

It won't supply a higher top speed. It controls the battery output, it doesn't add anything extra. It's worth doing though as it gives FAR more control than the stock ESC.

Thanks! Motors used in clone boards: magnetoelectricskateboard.com/products/ox-motor?variant=6827495173 www.melonboard.com/product-page/motor-and-mount As for specs, I'm afraid I don't know. I used to have a link to the Chinese manufacturer's site that had these motor's specifications, but I've checked and I can't seem to find it. :-(

Ha! Nah, a quick dry and lube after and they're fine. It's the electronics that's the risky part!

You have as much idea as me I'm afraid. I'd research the usual DIY E-board builder forums and I'd Google around...

Not sure what you mean by 'bad'. If you mean it places a short term, high current demand and can reduce range (depending on how often you do non push starts), then yes, this is well known. But it's hardly 'bad'. It should be noted having non push start capability is VERY useful. I use it quite often around the back streets of Cambridge.

I'd say just unnecessary wear and tear. But its yours and you're allowed to do what you want, not judging!!

Hi TDZ. I'm not saying you are, I'm merely putting it into context. For example, the strain on a board going uphill (depending on the length) is considerably more than a few stop starts. How do I know this? When I touch the ESC, motor and batteries after a few stop starts there is no appreciable increase in heat. However when I go up a significant hill, depending on the ESC... hot hot hot! The irony is that people rarely advocate walking up a hill, they'd rather use the motor (and rightfully so), but when it comes to a stop start... people are keen to say 'you shouldn't do that'. As long as a rider is aware there is a small decrease in range and the mechanics can handle it (there is no belt slippage), I don’t see the problem.

Dr Circuit We should put a gauge to measure the current that the board is drawing from the battery as well as the battery gauge.

Funnily enough, literally today, I discovered a couple of VESC Bluetooth apps (which displays a wide range of info including current draw) in Google's Playstore. I might get one of these and link it to my VESC and see what it reveals. Whatever the current draw, the length of time would also need to be taken into account. For example, a stop start consisting of a five second sixty amp draw is far less effort for the battery, etc, than sixty seconds of a fifty amp draw going up a significant hill.

Thanks for the kind words! I've never played around with the FOC settings as my current configuration works well, but from what you say... I just might.

Not off the top off my head, I'd have to do a bit of Googling...

No need to apologise. Thank you for posting.

I don't know much about Polk Audio 65T speakers, so all I can do is give general advice: If the speakers are of sufficient age, and they contain electrolytic capacitors, they could very well respond favourably to a recap. Electrolytic caps are known to age, even when not being used. As for the replacement caps, there is a school of thought that believe boutique caps are the way to go, and a school of thought that think this is a waste of money. Whatever the case, replacing like for like, but newer, should bring an audible improvement, if existing caps are old. As for replacing the crossovers in their entirety... you'd have to replace them with the same or some sort of kit that is specifically made for these speakers. Not any old crossover will do.

Mmm, sounds like it's doing what it's meant to do; limit the current to the ESC. I only get this on long, steep hills, and I'm heavy. But it will slow down on smaller inclines too, and that's a good thing. Again, it's limiting the current draw. When you say it 'doesn't cope well', do you mean it slows down, or something else?

It just gets slower and slower, its quite annoying because with the old magneto vesc i would zip up the hills! I also came off the board a few weeks ago now while i was going up a hill because it got slower and slower and then cut out!

did you get this one: www.ebay.co.uk/itm/VESC-4-12-Motor-controller-open-source-BLDC-Speed-Controller-VESC-vedder-Pcb-/182419271213?hash=item2a79092e2d:g:oFwAAOSwZ1BXe6Ct

Thats's the newer version of mine!

That's what it is meant to do. Having said that yours seems to be limiting it a bit too soon. What level do you have the current limit set at? Is the ESC enclosed? Does it have a heat sink on it? From the VESC information: "Up to 240A for a couple of seconds or about 50A continuous depending on the temperature and air circulation around the PCB." Mine is enclosed, but with heat sinks and limit set at 60A. It takes me up hills, it does it a slower speed than if it were on a horizontal surface, but reliably. I MUCH prefer this to it going up fast and blowing. Like my THREE stock ESCs have.

Hi SR, and thanks! About your board cutting out... it sounds a lot like it's the ESC. The frequency of it cutting out under load with the occasional random restart is indicative of this. If it were me I'd simply replace it with a VESC. On no account would I get the one you've seen on eBay. It's the same as the rubbish ones used in the clone boards.

Haha! Thats my listing! Thats a Vesc from a Magneto Board!

James Hagerty no way! btw im not going to buy the stock esc as its just too unreliable but if anyone has a vesc, feel free to hit me up

It's not one of the ones I've come across, so don't know much about it. However I've seen quite a few of these online so I was thinking of getting one play around with...

My plan is to do some more range tests (I've done the Boosted Board, I'd like to do the Metro Board, the Chinese cloneboard and the Chinese cloneboard with large wheels). When this is done I might get another board, but in keeping with trying to encourage a cheap way into electric skateboards it'll likely be another cheap Chinese board. So it might well be the Koowheel...

Dr Circuit don't I have done it already stay well well away

im not talking about the onl Magneto, im taking about the KooWheel (the New Magneto)

yes the new magneto, i bought one and they wont even honor their own warranty.

LOL! :-)

ua-cam.com/video/uaZ_Fqst4NY/v-deo.html

Well spotted. I've tried rubber sealant and water proof tape, all with mixed results. Think I'm going to remove it all and try Shoe Goo.

Hi NF. You mean on your clone board? If so this can happen when the ESC is struggling to supply current and shuts off to protect itself. Best thing to do is replace it with a VESC or Alien ESC. The stock ESCs in the Chinese clone boards are awful.

ill try that when it finally conks out

Depends on what you want and if you can and are willing to upgrade an electric board. I cannot answer your question as it is as it's far too open ended.

Look for a 6S/cell Li-Ion compatible BMS (I have never managed to find out the specs for Chinese clone battery charging and discharging rates, so do not buy a BMS that charges batteries at a high rate). Or you could forgo it completely and charge the battery with a third party/off the shelf battery charger and use the ESC to throttle/limit the current to the motor.

Dr Circuit plz can u make a video of how u can charge it with 3rd party because I don't know anything about skateboards and electronics. I have only used it for one week and it broke for a reason. I really appreciate you If u can do it

Dr Circuit omg thank you sooo much 🖒🖒

hey again can u pleaae check if this bms works as a replacement of my old Chinese clone electric skateboard ? link: m.ebay.com.au/itm/6s-cells-20A-balancing-Li-ion-Lithium-18650-Battery-In-Out-BMS-Protection-Board-/222168853051?nav=SEARCH

Nope. The over current threshold is only 30A and the balance socket will need an adapter.

Incorrect. This IS an "original, real Magneto Board". In other words, also a clone. "London versions" are bought from China and shipped over.

Yup, it completely transforms the board! :-)

Yup, and I haven't had to buy any spares, but I'd try Magneto Board first if you're in the UK.

Thanks! I use the stock belts and they perform very well for me. I haven't had to change any yet! And 60A works well for me too.

I wouldn't call it fragile, but if you're worried you can always enclose it. Either way, there is a newer VESC which is already encased and has heatsinks fitted. I haven't personally tried it but it looks very good indeed: www.enertionboards.com/electric-skateboard-parts/vesc-x-motor-controller/